Spot-priming
Priming only the repaired, bare or stained areas of a surface rather than the whole surface.
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Priming only the repaired, bare or stained areas of a surface rather than the whole surface.
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8 entries for “Spot-priming”
For this full-repaint scope, my usual sequence is repair first, then spot-prime.
I generally brush the cut-ins and roll repaints. In suitable empty spaces, I may spray and back-roll. After preparation and spot-priming, apply two finish coats, observing the selected coating's drying and recoat instructions.
Field practiceSpot-priming is usually enough for my typical repaint when the rest of the coating is sound.
Situation: Ordinary porous drywall patches, without stains or torn facing · My usual approach: Spot-prime with a suitable water-based interior primer or PVA. · Selection checkpoint: Confirm suitability for the patch and finish paint. Sound surrounding paint does not automatically need full priming.
Field practiceOnce sound, clean, and ready, the area is spot-primed, allowed additional drying time, and checked again.
Field practiceI spot-prime the damaged facing before patching, using a suitable oil-based primer. Once that is dry, I skim or patch the area. I use joint compound where there are many repairs or larger areas, and spackle for smaller, isolated defects.
If I find one, I correct it, sand as needed, remove the dust, and spot-prime the repair before applying finish paint.
Manufacturer directionSpot-priming can also create uneven holdout; broader priming may be needed for uniform appearance.
Manufacturer directionForte Satin B71-550 lists two hours in its drying table but also includes four-hour instructions for specified bare-surface and spot-priming situations.
Filed under Technique: Spot-priming
Filed under Technique: Spot-priming