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8 entries for “cedar”
Start with joints, seams, and where the cedar meets the soffits. Check that pieces fit properly and required seals are intact. This applies to new and previously painted cedar; on painted cedar, also inspect for coating failure.
Several coats releasing together and exposing cedar suggest failure deep in the system.
If the cedar is soft all the way through, I recommend replacement even when the spot is small.
A Level 5 smooth wall, a wood-grain door, rough cedar, and deep stucco texture need different tools even when the same painter is doing the work.
Exterior surface: Rough cedar siding · My nap length: Usually 1 inch · Cover choice: Woven cover; Purdy Colossus is my preferred example
Field practiceColossus is my preferred named cover for back-rolling rough cedar and stucco. Other manufacturers offer useful woven options; choose by the actual nap, coating, and finish requirements.
For the exterior acrylics discussed in the cedar entry, I commonly start with a 515, subject to the product's requirements.
Check deposited coating against the manufacturer's coverage and wet-film requirements; I use a wet-film gauge in my cedar workflow.
On rough cedar, I commonly use a 1/2-3/4-inch roller nap; smoother surfaces call for shorter nap.
This example shows how to organize the problem. Detailed repair instructions belong in the dedicated cedar entry: Entry 001 — Preparing and Repainting Cedar Siding.
Select the tip and settings for the DTM product rather than borrowing the cedar topcoat setup without checking it.
Do not apply a generic cedar spray setup unchanged to a different product.
Entry 001 — Preparing and Repainting Cedar Siding
Filed under Problem: Tannin bleed
“Colossus is my preferred named cover for back-rolling rough cedar and stucco.
Inspect cedar for flashing after the coating and any touch-ups dry.
During the final cedar inspection, check for uneven coverage, missed spots (holidays), and tannin bleed-through.