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Problem
Technique
6 entries for “cedar”
Start with joints, seams, and where the cedar meets the soffits. Check that pieces fit properly and required seals are intact. This applies to new and previously painted cedar; on painted cedar, also inspect for coating failure.
Several coats releasing together and exposing cedar suggest failure deep in the system.
If the cedar is soft all the way through, I recommend replacement even when the spot is small.
A Level 5 smooth wall, a wood-grain door, rough cedar, and deep stucco texture need different tools even when the same painter is doing the work.
Exterior surface: Rough cedar siding · My nap length: Usually 1 inch · Cover choice: Woven cover; Purdy Colossus is my preferred example
Field practiceColossus is my preferred named cover for back-rolling rough cedar and stucco. Other manufacturers offer useful woven options; choose by the actual nap, coating, and finish requirements.
For the exterior acrylics discussed in the cedar entry, I commonly start with a 515, subject to the product's requirements.
Check deposited coating against the manufacturer's coverage and wet-film requirements; I use a wet-film gauge in my cedar workflow.
On rough cedar, I commonly use a 1/2-3/4-inch roller nap; smoother surfaces call for shorter nap.
Select the tip and settings for the DTM product rather than borrowing the cedar topcoat setup without checking it.
Do not apply a generic cedar spray setup unchanged to a different product.
Filed under Problem: Tannin bleed